On The Bayeaux Catering & Distribution

At this small, colorful, converted old house, you're bound to get personalized service because there are but a few tables. Here, they churn out crispy catfish, glorious gumbo, sensational smothered pork chops and exciting étouffées, all of which will make you want to hug yo' mama — not to mention an oyster or gator po' boy that will remind you of New Orleans. They are known for their all-you-can-eat catfish, and if you have a couple of hours to spare, you can certainly attempt to do some damage to the catfish industry. Mustard greens, okra, yams and corn are among the traditional sides available, and their sweet potato pie or peach cobbler are not to be missed. Repeat: not to be missed.

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4) Serve It With Soul

For a taste of Cajun and soul food, stop by Claudia and Brian Nickerson's Soul on the Bayeaux (3717 Dowling Street, 713-528-0732), in the heart of Houston's Third Ward, a neighborhood just seeing the beginnings of renewal and development. Look for the gator. Dishes include blackened catfish ($11.95) and crayfish étoufée ($9.95), with okra and corn, mustard greens or collard greens on the side. In season, consider the fried alligator appetizer ($5.95) if you think you can handle it.

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Another terrific place is Soul on the Bayeaux (3717 Dowling St, 713-528-0732), serving Louisiana-style soul food in an old shotgun-style house with maybe twelve tables. The fried catfish is a slice of heaven.